WHY HERE: A hidden entrance inside a cocktail supply shop? Dapperly clad bartenders? Yawn. On paper, it would be easy to assume that Tokyo native Shingo Gokan’s Shanghai bar was simply the popular speakeasy du jour. But oh, how wrong you’d be. Speak Low is as ambitious as it is adventurous, offering three different floors worth of bars, each with its own unique vibe, from buzzy and high-volume to urbane and sexy. WHY NOW: Gokan, who also operates the much-lauded Angel’s Share in New York, has made Speak Low the kind of aggressively thoughtful, aspirational project that will continue to push bartenders, and bar owners, to up their own game for years to come.