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Chef Robin Song’s open-fire cooking offers an inspired vision of what refined-casual dinners can be. Gibson is as easy to treat as a bar stop with bites as it is for a full meal in the striking modern-meets–Art Deco space. Beverage director Adam Chapman’s cocktails riff off classics in unexpected ways: The French 75 is fermented, and the Bloody Mary is clarified.

THE DRINK TO DRINK: The Sea Gibson, a blend of Oakland Spirits Co.’s Sea gin and The 86 Co.’s Fords gin with a house solution of dehydrated nori (seaweed) and fresh sugar kelp juice, given backbone with citric acid.

KNOW BEFORE YOU GO: While duck liver mousse is an obvious pick for chef Song’s sourdough bread grilled in the wood oven, whipped cauliflower-curried currant dip is the sweet-savory sleeper hit.

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111 Mason St.
San Francisco, CA 94102