Southerners love their sweet tea in summer. “It’s everywhere––at every restaurant, every gas station,” says bartender Weisi Basore of the classic iced drink brewed from black tea and often spiked with a mountain of sugar. “With the hot, muggy weather, it’s just about the most refreshing thing you can drink.”
So in scheming the cocktail menu at casual small-plates eatery Bar Cleeta in Bentonville, Ark., that Basore launched with her chef-husband, Trae Basore, last May, she felt compelled to pay tribute to the drink. Her Forefathers cocktail is a sweet-tea-laced rendition of an Old Fashioned that appropriately fits into Bar Cleeta’s cocktail collection: simple classic-inspired libations made from just a few seasonal ingredients.
The cocktail is firmly in line with the restaurant’s New American meets Southern-inflected menu, where you’re likely to find charred chile-spiked market beans with caramelized sour cream and hazelnut gremolata or an onion and bacon tarte flambé.
“We thought we should bring a little bit of the metropolitan-style dining to the area,” says Weisi Basore, adding that despite a bit of polish, her husband’s food is still “incredibly homey and rustic.”
Basore helped the late Sasha Petraske open now-defunct White Star bar on New York City’s Lower East Side a decade ago and credits the cocktail pioneer with her training. From there, she eventually moved on to Manhattan’s lauded seasonal New American restaurant Blue Hill. Meanwhile, also in New York, her husband moved over from executive sous chef at Colicchio & Sons to executive chef at popular wine bar Pearl & Ash (both now closed). The couple spent a year or so in Los Angeles before committing to Trae’s hometown in Arkansas.
The Forefathers is liquid tribute to the South––one that incorporates the region’s most beloved summer refreshment and its prime summer fruit, peaches. To build the drink, she first makes a sweet tea oleo saccharum by macerating citrus with sugar, then cooks the mixture with sweet tea to form a syrup. She stirs that over ice with Evan Williams 1783 bourbon and a few dashes of Fee Brothers peach bitters. “The oleo saccharum brings a hint of citrus to the sweet tea syrup and rounds out this version of an Old Fashioned,” she says.