A little bit devil-may-care adventurous, a little bit French café, chef Kristin Essig’s bistro-style restaurant is a space that does both group dining and date nights well. Formerly the chef at local favorite Ste. Marie, Essig has created a menu that celebrates richness: beef tartare, sweetbreads and chicken liver pâté all are stunners. But Essig presents these lush elements in a way that’s fresh and reimagined. The sweetbreads do a fine job of incorporating local influences while still feeling Francophone—with a pecan-cornmeal crust, sweet potato cake, pepper jelly jus and kale gremolata. The one room space also has a limited but well-executed bar program, with drinks like the Flambeaux 75, which brings together mezcal, honey, grapefruit oil, cava and lemon.
Know Before You Go: The Herbsaint bone marrow luge is an indulgence that only seems off-putting. It’s quite elegant. You should do it—if only to make little old ladies clutch their pearls.
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